There are several types of reel and each one must be mastered separately. Reels fall into two basic categories, (1) fixed spool with rotating pick-up (2) rotating spool. Each reel has its pros and cons. Fly fishing is practically a different sport so I do not cover that type of reel.
Spinning Reel
The open-faced spinning reel is the most commonly used reel in a salt water environment for fish in the 1 to 50 pound range. Spinning reels are for casting and while distance records are set with conventional reels, spinning reels are more easily mastered, provide sufficient casting distance, and are more versatile when it comes to lures of varying weights. Spinning reels require the use of your finger as a line-release mechanism (though there are line-release mechanisms available). Spinning reels can be made lighter in weight which means they are less tiring to use and they are less likely to result in a rats nest of tangled line.
Pros:
- Light weight
- Very cast-able
Cons:
- Subject to line twisting after repeated runs on the drag
- Requires time to master casting.
Considerations:
There are several key things to consider when selecting a spinning reel. The first step is to calculate the size of the reel you need. Reel size boils down to line capacity; how much line can the reel hold.
- You don’t want to oversize the reel because you will be carrying and casting excess weight and because you will be paying for extra line that never gets used.
- On the other hand, if you under-size the reel, you are at risk that a fish will run-out your line and break it. The other risk is that the drag system on a smaller reel will be insufficient to endure battles with your target fish. This is a serious consideration now that reels can hold more/heavier line when loaded with super-braid.
Assume that I want 200 yards of 15 lb Spectra (super-braid). My maximum cast is about 100 yards so everything else is “backing” in the event that I hook a fish that pushes the limits of my equipment (i.e. line). While I consider the back 100 yards to be “backing”, I use Spectra through-out; I don’t put a cheaper backing on.
I size the reel to accommodate 200 yards (in my case). Because you never want to fill the spool to the edge, you will want to add 10% or 20 yards to for a total capacity of 220 yards. Most reels have a capacity rating on the spool. Look for the line weight you want then read the corresponding capacity. If you are loading the spool with Spectra, you must use the mono-filament equivalent; thus, if you are spooling with PowerPro 15lb, the box indicates that it is the same diameter as 6.5lb mono-filament. You look on the spool’s capacity chart under 6.5lb (or therein) and confirm that it will hold 220 yards.
OK, so you have done this and you are looking at three or four reels that have a 220 yard capacity for 6.5lb mono-filament.
Spool dimensions:
The next thing I look at is the spool dimensions. Great spool dimensions mean great casting dimensions. I like the newer reels with the smaller diameter, longer spooling area. These are better for casting because:
- The smaller diameter means reduced line slap and therefore reduced air friction
- More line is coming off the top which means less friction spooling off the lip of the spool
- More consistent spool diameter over the full capacity which means the drag remains more consistent over the entire length of spooled line.
Metal body:
The next thing I look at is the construction of the reel body, particularly the support arm. I like metal rather than composite because metal has less flex. Composite may be lighter, but this is one place that I am willing to concede weight. The axis of the mounted reel should point straight though the center of the first guide. This is most important during the cast, but is also important when fighting a fish. I want to be confident that the support arm is not flexing and that my alignment remains straight.
Consistent drag:
I like to exercise the drag at all its levels. Read the line capacity spec’s such as 8-240, 10-200, 12-160. The last one is 12lb test which suggests that the drag was designed for that limit. Sure, you may be able to load the real with 50lb braid, but the drag won’t function at that level of resistance; it will likely heat-up and seize, you’ll bend the spindle and who know what else. What you’d like to do is put a drill on the spool and spin it a while to see if the drag can handle it, but that’s not going to happen. Read the spec’s, good ceramic is good, but bad ceramic is no better than other materials. Practically speaking, you can’t disassemble the drag rings from the spool assembly of a reel you haven’t purchased and even if you did, I’m not sure what you could see that would make any difference. Pay attention to the number of turns it takes to tighten the drag from its lightest setting to its heaviest and rotate the drag at each level feeling for smooth resistance even at the tightest setting.
Bearings:
I like to review the specifications related to anti-rust bearings, sealed components, anti-reverse, etc. Each manufacturer has a spin on it, A-RB, CRBB, etc. Sealed stainless is what you want, the more, the merrier.
The last thing I do is mount the reels on the rod(s) I am considering and simply dry cast, reel, and generally feel the combination in my hands. You’re looking for balance. Hold the rod/reel combination with one hand as though you are fishing – think of your other hand is free to grab the handle or a beer. The place that you are holding the rod is where you want the pivotal point of balance. It’s typically at or just ahead of the reel seat. You should be able to balance the rod on your finger at this point. Some rod manufacturer sell counter balance weights for the rod but to adjust from reel to reel – I think this is a bit excessive.
Finger as line-release and cuts:
Before moving to a different style of reel, it is important to note that casting with a spinning reel requires use of your finger and that with Spectra (super braid), your finger is likely to get cut. The cut is more of a split due to the force of the very thin line on your skin rather than a cut from the line sliding along your skin. There are several solutions.
- Some people use gloves, I find that gloves impair sensitivity and affect casting.
- Some people use a line release mechanism, I find them to be cumbersome.
- I use a simple strip of medical tape. I protects your finger before you get a cut and it holds the split closed after you get a cut (in case you forget to put it on).
Spin-Casting Reel
The closed-face spin-casting reel is about the simplest reel to operate and for that reason is a great reel for children. It has a line-release thumb-operated button that makes casting simple and it automatically switches back from free-spool when the user begins to crank the line. Like all other reels, it also has a variable drag. Unfortunately, the reel has limitations that prevent it from consideration for surf casting. The practical limit to line weight is about 10-lb mono, though it is quite possible that one could load heavier weight super-braid. Thick lines are too stiff to work with the internal line pick-up and will slip. Thicker line would also be too stiff to free-spool limit casting distances. As it is, light line casting is limited by internal “line slap” and the friction it imparts on the cast. Lastly, the internal line pick-up which is responsible for wrapping the line down on the spool rubs against the line as it does so. This scallop-shaped component has no rollers on it as does the bail/pick-up of the spinning reel. This rubbing will wear and/or fatigue the line over time. Lastly, like all fixed spool reels, there is a tendency for the line to twist after repeated runs on the drag system.
Pros:
- Simple to operate
Cons:
- Limited to light line
- Poor casting due to internal friction
- Line wear and/or fatigue
- Subject to line twisting after repeated runs on the drag
Under-Spin Spin-Casting Reel
The under-spin reel is virtually identical to the spin-casting reel. The differences are that it mounts under the rod like a spinning reel and the line-release trigger is finger-operated vs. thumb-operated. This reel shares all the same pros and cons as the spin-casting reel.
Pros:
- Simple to operate
Cons:
- Limited to light line
- Poor casting due to internal friction
- Line wear and/or fatigue
- Subject to line twisting after repeated runs on the drag
Conventional Reel
The conventional reel is typically reserved for trolling and other non-casting applications. HOWEVER! There is a very strong minority of fisherman that use this type of reel for surf casting. In fact, this style of reel is consistently credited with top prizes for competitive distance casting with casts in excess of 800 feet! Casting distances over 800 feet require great skill and modifications and tuning to the reel that are impractical for even the most obsessed fisherman … though, I must admit, there have been times when I could have used that extra distance. This style of reel is used to catch fish of all sizes. Smaller versions of this rolling spool design are frequently called “Bait Casting Reels”.
Pros:
- Simple to operate
- Line is not subject to twisting after repeated runs on the drag
- Reel design facilitates stronger assembly with
Cons:
- Requires time to master casting
- Tend to be heavier than their spinning equivalent
Bait Casting Reel
The Bait Casting reel with a rotating spool is a variation on the Conventional reels. Bait Casting reels, not to be confused with “Bait Casting Spinning Reels” which are spinning reels with dual drags, are designed for simpler operation and have a button to hold and release the line for casting. Bait casting reels are said to facilitate more accuracy in the cast; I have yet to be convinced.
Pros:
- Simple to operate
- Line is not subject to twisting after repeated runs on the drag
- Reel design facilitates stronger assembly with
Cons:
- Tend to be heavier than their spinning equivalent
